Sunday 8th April 2001

As I left England, a serious outbreak of foot and mouth disease was showing no signs of abating. The British countryside is suffering badly. In stark contrast, I arrived back in Tokyo to find the cherry blossom in full bloom and the country on its annual high. It looks unlikely to stick around long enough for our wedding though, lasting at its best, for only a couple of weeks. On the Saturday after getting back it also snowed. It was the first time in thirteen years that it had done so during the Hanami season in Tokyo. On the Sunday, fortunately, the weather was perfect, and Yuki and I went to a park for a small Hanami party with her parents. The trees overhanging the boating lake were very picturesque and there were hundreds of People taking photo's of it all. I couldn't believe how many of them were carrying tripods - entirely unnecessary in such good light. I think they just like to show how seriously they take the beauty of this season.

Last Thursday I went to the British Embassy to state my intention to get married in Japan. A member of the consular staff explained all the ins and outs of a British/Japanese marriage, both in procedure and future implications. A notice is then displayed on the office notice board for fifteen days to give people the option to object. After that time, a certificate of no impediment to marry (CNI) is issued.

On Friday night we were due to meet up with Yuki's cousin again to discuss the big day. He had to cancel, and I got the chance to go for a few beers with Marlon instead... Or that's what I thought... It was actually a stag party organised for me by Marlon, with Yuki supplying the alternative engagement to make sure I'd be free! This was my first surprise party ever! I was overwhelmed! I was also very drunk, very quickly after visiting a couple of pubs in Shibuya and an izakaya! I was home by around twelve (apparently), and don't mind admitting to having a conversation on the great white telephone!

We've also had two more meetings at the hotel to finalise the wedding plans. Unbelievably, there's still one more the day before the event. It has been planned like a military operation. Hopefully, it will be more successful than Japan's last military operation (could get in trouble for that one)!

The last thing to report today, is that I've bought another gadget for my beloved computer, a web camera. I can now talk to people and see them live over the net. Yuki and I have discovered there are some very weird people out there! Enough said, I think. On a practical note though, it opens up possibilities for keeping in touch from the UK to Japan. The technology just needs to get a bit easier to use for the computer illiterate.

Wednesday 18th April 2001

The guests have gone home, Yuki's back at work and my flat is full of wonderful presents. We are Married! Everything went without a hitch... Almost.

Last Wednesday, after a two day business trip to Kyoto (including two extensive karaoke sessions), I met my first arriving wedding guests in Tokyo. They were my mates from the UK, Alan and Andrew, better known as Sammy and Vin respectively. Tokyo Tower was our first destination, a good place to get an idea of the scale and layout of Tokyo. Then it was off to Mad Mulligan's where they had their first taste of beer at Japanese prices. Having survived that experience well, we headed off to Roppongi, where despite their jet-lag, they survived until almost midnight. I was impressed with the way they were finding their way around the transport system.

Day two. I managed to get to Narita Airport about two minutes before my mother, sister Julie, uncle Bryn, auntie Wendy and friend Caroline walked through the arrivals gate. It was down to me now to see that everybody had a good experience in Tokyo. I didn't want them to get a one sided view as it would be so easy to do. There are many sides to Tokyo, and I wanted to introduce as many as I could.

We took the Narita Express to Tokyo Station, and because of the one o'clock check-in time, went to my apartment for a rest and a cup of tea. A couple of hours after getting everyone checked in to the Holiday Inn in Hatchobori, we went to eat. The first Japanese meal was to be gudon (gyu-don) at the "Yoshinoya" restaurant chain. This is very thinly sliced beef, boiled and served on a bowl of rice, a typical Japanese fast food. It went down well, and chopsticks didn't present too much of a problem.

Next was the Imperial Palace, stopping to see the enormous fish in the moat along the way. I intended then to visit the palace's East Garden, but it closed at four o'clock, so instead, we went by foot and subway to Ginza, to do a little shopping. While there, some of the party collected free cans of fruit juice at a product promotion, something that is extremely common in Tokyo. I had walked everyone far enough by this time, so left them to return to their hotel, while I went home to put the finishing touches to some wedding plans.

After uniting everybody at a very welcoming Mad Mulligan's, we went across the road to the twenty-four hour family restaurant, "Jonathan's". We were going to go to somewhere more Japanese, but my family had taken a ride down the Hibiya line in the wrong direction before coming to the pub! Dinner over, those who were not dead on their feet came to Roppongi. After a couple of bars, we went to a karaoke place. We accepted an offer of karaoke and "nomehodai" (all you can drink) until five am, for two thousand, seven hundred yen each. I discovered that Sammy has a voice not unlike Bob Dylan's, but whereas Bob Dylan's songs could not exactly be called sweet melodies, Sammy's could not even be called melodies!

Day three. Having struggled back home at some time after five in the morning, I failed to meet Dick, Tracey and baby holly at Tokyo Station. They had flown in from Australia, but managed to find their way to the Holiday Inn unaided. Sorry!

All except the new arrivals met up again and took the subway to Asakusa. The shops that line the walk to the temple held much greater attraction to the women among us, than the great building itself! That said, I think everyone was pretty impressed, and took part in making wishes and receiving their horoscope-like predictions. Having got a bad fortune, my auntie tied it to a rack, thereby nulling it.

Next was a pleasure-boat trip to Odaiba, something my mum wasn't at all keen on. However, it turned out to be a fun trip, if a little windy. We were soon below decks.

About forty-five minutes later, we were in Odaiba, the girls looking around Venus Fort, the Italian style shopping mall, and the guys visiting the huge Toyota entertainment centre/showroom. Then it was off to Shibuya via the Tokyo New Transit System and the subway.

In Shibuya we met up with Marlon, Brian and Ron. Three of my colleagues from Japan, the UK and the USA. After a visit to a typical Japanese computer games centre, we went to "The Hub", for a few drinks, before venturing into an izakaya. The Izakaya was a good taste of Japan for my friends and family, but I don't think the staff were all so happy about the experience. It was inevitable that this evening would end once again with karaoke! Got home at around three-thirty.

On Saturday morning, wedding looming close, I was struggling to finish some preparations for Yuki's friends. After working with Ema and Yoko and several changes of schedule, my family met Yuki's parents. We met up before Yuki arrived, so I had to do my best to make the introductions. Yuki turned up and guided us to the restaurant where we were to have our lunch. The meal went very well, with Yuki and I aiding communication between her mother and father, and my family. There wasn't the nervous stand off that there could have been, just a relaxed, informal Japanese lunch. I left the others shopping in Ginza and went home to relax for a few moments.

Shortly afterwards, Dick, Tracey and their baby Holly came to Kamiyacho to say Hi. I couldn't hang around long as I had to go to the Akasaka Prince Hotel to meet Daniela and Karin, friends who had arrived fro Austria. We met up, went off to meet the others in Hatchobori, then made our way by train to Tokyo Disneyland. This is where my second mistake had its effect. I had left my mobile phone at home, and Sammy and Vin were supposed to be calling it to meet up with us at TDL. We didn't bump into them, as I'd been hoping. At the end of the evening, I had my last couple of beers (Guinness) as a single man, before retiring to bed.

Then came the big day...

Our Wedding Day!

Believe it or not, I still had the second party's music to select and burn onto CD's, and a couple of revisions to make to Ema and Yoko's presentation on my laptop.

At about ten fifteen, I made my way by taxi to the hotel. I was immediately taken to the dressing room to have my kimono fitted. I had two women making sure that everything was just perfect. It was quite a strange outfit, but when they were finished, I felt great, and loved the way it looked. Shortly afterwards, I could see why they were meticulous with the fitting. I went to the photographic studio where Yuki was waiting in a deep orange, highly decorated kimono. She was wearing a traditional hairpiece, also decorated, and had her face made up using an almost white foundation. I was stunned. She looked amazing, like an empress. I couldn't believe I was about to marry this woman! The photographers and their assistants posed us with precision. Not a hair or a finger position was left to chance! Yuki then went off, only to return in the white wedding ceremony kimono. Again, she looked wonderful. We had another picture taken, then went to meet our families.

The families and some of my friends were in a room where Yuki and I made the formal introductions. Then the families also came into the photo studio for a big group photo, with everyone lined up reminiscent of the photo's taken at world summits! From here it was off to prepare for the ceremony itself. After a short rehearsal of a couple of parts of the ceremony, we went into the shrine.

The hotel had managed to provide seats for everybody, which I was very pleased about. The ceremony itself was very solemn, conducted by one man plus two girl assistants. Yuki's father and my mother also had a role to play. I had to read out some vows in Japanese. I'd got Yuki to write these in romanji to make this task easier (or even possible)! I look forward to seeing the video of the ceremony, as I couldn't take it all in at the time. I do remember drinking some very nice sake in the process, though!

After the ceremony, it was across to the "Guest house" for the meal. We welcomed our guests into the "Sapphire Room" which was laid out beautifully. Things just kept getting better and better. After a few minutes, we entered, with Yuki wearing her coloured kimono, and her cousin, Hiroki, started the proceedings. The presentations given by our friends were amazing. I was completely blown away. I have to admit to more than one moment which brought a tear to my eyes. It seemed that everybody had got involved in some way, and so much work had been put in by so many of them. From amazing computer presentations and first class musical performances, to touching speeches and an amusing singing parody called "An Englishman in Tokyo". I have so many people to thank. During the meal, Yuki and I had to leave the party to get changed.

When we re-entered Yuki was wearing a white traditional western wedding dress and I, a dinner suit. We were carrying a lance which had at its far end a flame. This was for the candle service, during which we went to each table in turn, lighting the candle at its centre. I have Marlon to thank for handing me a beer to "down in one"! I needed it to calm my nerves, and prevent me from burning the whole place down!

The meal was delicious. Better than I'd expected, with even a half lobster included. There was reason for this. Yuki had, unbeknown to me, upped the level of meal that we would pay for. Mental note: Watch out for similar behaviour in future! The service, if anything, was even better. Apart from the usual Japanese quality of service, the sheer number of waiting staff surprised me. At last, it was becoming clear where all that money went. I realise now, that the whole thing was indeed, worth the cost. I never would have believed it.

After the meal was over and flowers had been presented in thanks to our parents, it was time for Yuki's father and I to give our speeches. Yuki's father gave his speech in Japanese, except for the words "Thank you for coming so far for this wedding". This got a great reception as he doesn't speak English, and had learnt it especially. I gave my speech in English, and then in Japanese (I'd had some people translating it for me during the meal)! My uncle Bryn had been so impressed by the way the Japanese people had made the foreign visitors feel so welcome, that he too gave an impromptu thank you speech. Finally we had a quick chat with everybody as they left, and thanked them individually for attending.

We now had about ninety minutes to go to our suite in the hotel and prepare for the evening's celebration.

The second party was in Bill's Bar in Akasaka. As is usual, there was a fee for all who attended, which included food and drink (from a limited, but adequate selection). There was confusion here about who was to collect the money from the guests, but this was cleared up with little impact on the party. I hadn't had time to confirm the details in the days preceding the wedding. It would have been a good idea, as unfortunately, the guest book was also not used. This said, the party was a great success, and I thank all the staff for catering for such a good party. Yuki's family and mine were getting on like a house on fire. It was fantastic. Language was no problem. If anything, I think it made it more fun!

There were so many friends there. We had trouble trying to introduce and talk to all of them (and possibly didn't - sorry, if you are one of them).

This party continued to about nine-thirty, at which point we informed everybody that we would move on to the "Empty Bar". It's also when we realised Yuki's handbag had gone missing. We didn't find it.

Instead of things calming down at the Empty Bar (Juanchito's), they just took off! We were all singing and dancing to the salsa beat, And having a great time. I have no idea what time we left the (now not so) Empty Bar! I had earlier had to apologise to Suzuki san, who runs Juanchito's, because when I drew his map to the second party, having had a few beers, I wrote Asakusa Station, not Akasaka Station, a difference of thirty minutes away, compared to five minutes away from his own bar!

What a day! What a night! It is said your wedding day should be the happiest in your life. This was. And what made it even better, was that several people came to us and said it was the best wedding they too had attended.

On Monday morning I received an e-mail from a colleague who had seen a man carrying a bag fitting the description of Yuki's missing one. My colleague described the man, and said that he was at the party. I will look at all the photo's and the video a friend was shooting to try to find the Person fitting the description.

In the afternoon, after returning to Kamiyacho and carrying Yuki over the threshold, we met up again with our friends and family in Hatchobori. From there we made our way to Kamakura to see the big bronze statue of Buddha. Before that we had another Japanese meal. The only one we'd had all week, which meant sitting or kneeling on tatami mats, with no recess under the table for our legs. An experience it would have been a shame to have missed. Unfortunately, we were a little late to visit a temple, but everybody seemed to enjoy the day anyway.

In the evening Yuki and I had sushi with Daniela and Karin. They'd wanted to try it, but were not too keen once they'd tasted a little. Then, after a beer, we said our goodbyes and went to the Holiday Inn for a quiet drink with my family and other friends. Quiet drink? Not a chance! The barmaid had drunk as much as the customers combined! Tracey, not being the shyest girl I know, was also well into the swing of things, and a few beers later, Yuki too was was entertaining us all! We said goodbye to the family and Caroline, and went home - now, our home.

Yesterday, we met Dick, Tracey and Holly for lunch, which we had in a restaurant in Hibiya Park. After another walk to see the Imperial Palace, we went to a nearby patisserie for a quick drink. Then, we again said goodbye.

That brings us to today. Yuki is back at work and I have to return (just for a day) tomorrow.

Tuesday 24th April 2001

Well it's back to routine now. Working all day, trying to figure out an excuse to go to the pub all evening! I expect a slow gradual erosion of my pub rights, so I'm getting myself into a good mental state in order to keep up my resistance! Or maybe my wife will be different... Better stay alert to ward off unconscious brainwashing.

We're doing all those "shopping together for the first time as a married couple" type things right now. It sounds very sad, but it's actually really amusing. Somebody mentioned to me about "post wedding blues", but touch wood, they haven't set in here.

Saturday 28th April 2001

It's almost ten a.m. The big day has arrived. Today I get married! "Hold on" I hear you cry, "You got married two weeks ago"! Well, not exactly... In Japan the ceremony has absolutely no legal meaning. The "real" wedding takes place in the local council office. Apparently a five minute formality, no appointment necessary! Then it's off to the passport office to change Yuki's name, and if we have time, to the NTT DoCoMo shop to get her a new mobile phone. I looked at the video of the second wedding party, but didn't spot anyone fitting the description on the fiend who stole her bag. Luckily every cloud has a silver lining. I'm not talking about Yuki's bag, although she did go out and buy a much more practical, very expensive replacement (Yuki has the "Japanese girl must buy another top brand bag" syndrome) . No, I'm talking about the fact that Gary at Bill's bar forgot to put someone on the door at the party last week. As a result the guestbook didn't get used. The silver lining is that I have unofficial "Free drink status" for the next couple of months! Hope he (or his boss) doesn't read this anytime soon!

Monday 30th April 2001

Today is "Greenery Day", a national holiday in Japan, and the beginning of Golden Week.

Well, we got married officially on Saturday. We had to make two visits to the local ward office, because we hadn't brought all the correct paperwork with us. As Saturday is not a normal working day, we had to go around to the rear entrance of the building. We again handed over the papers and after five minutes we were man and wife. It was like getting married by the security guard, except if he was a security guard he would probably have worn a tie! We now have to call the office on a working day to receive confirmation of the wedding (just a formality) and arrange to receive two wedding certificates, one for us and one to register in the UK (not compulsory, but it may prevent complications later).

In the evening of Saturday, we went to dinner (and of course, Karaoke) with Yuki's friend Kaori and her boyfriend Kai. Had a few too many beers and paid the price in the morning!

Yesterday we went to Yuki's parents' house for dinner. Her dad has bought a massage chair. It was very expensive, but it's fantastic. It has loads of settings to choose from, even massaging your legs! Yuki isn't too keen on me getting one!